Fall of 2020, we needed to get away and regroup after a tough spring and summer of covid.  We chose Maine because they had a pretty strong response to the pandemic with good safety protocols in place and we could be outside and away from crowds.  We meandered our way from the Boston Airport north our first day with a beautiful unplanned stop in Portsmouth, NH and amazing scenery on the backroads instead of the freeway.  We were supposed to have flown into Portland and headed to Lubec to see the sunrise on the eastern most point on the continental US but travel plans were disrupted.  That allowed us a night in Kittery, ME and exploring Portsmouth, NH before heading north to rejoin our original itinerary.  We spent two nights in Bar Harbor and explored Acadia National Park.  We will definitely go back with more time to spend at the park.  Then we headed back south to stay in a remote cabin near Boothbay Harbor for two nights.  We finished the trip in Portland for a night before we flew out the next day.  We didn’t have a super tight agenda, choosing instead to find some points of interest and let ourselves meander through the state following whatever looked interesting or taking advice from locals on next activities.  We traveled at the tail end of October and got lucky with some of the famed foliage still in its glory but when crowds had thinned making it very pleasant. We really appreciated the natural beauty of the rugged coast line (more coastline than any other state in the US!), the forests filled with both evergreen and deciduous trees speckled with rocky outcrops, the love of high quality, local foods, and the infusion of art and craft everywhere you went.  It was a unique culture that combined a love of history, modern updates, and elevated food, art and nature.  We can’t wait to return and do a deeper dive in some of our favorite places!

Kittery, ME on the border of Portsmouth, NH, Stayed at the Water Street Inn.  This is just the BnB I would run if I had one.  Self check in, common area for coffee or an evening rest, beautiful rooms in a historic house but with all the modern amenities.  Great furnishings and art topped it off not to mention walking across the river to Portsmouth was a delightful surprise!

York, ME Nubble Light House Gorgeous lighthouse on a little island just off the coast.  Picture perfect first lighthouse.

Cape Elizabeth, ME Portland Head Light at Fort Williams Park.  Sprawling park with impressive grounds and light house on an old military installation.  Gift shop and snack trucks.  More touristy than some others.

Freeport, ME The Home of LL Bean.  A great campus with all things LL Bean, clothing, outfitter items and a home store.  We bought the obligatory flannels and new hiking boots.  Great quality and neat to see the headquarters of this iconic brand.

Belfast, ME We found this town on accident looking for a dinner on the drive from Kittery to Bar Harbor.   Perennial Cider Bar was our destination but I believe it’s closed.  It blew us away with an owner who was also the cook, bartender and grows heirloom apples on his orchard.  Beverages were all ciders made in ME and neighboring states and the food was simple with a menu that rotated frequently depending on what was fresh but revolving around  a theme of starter boards, salad, soup and a main dish sandwich or stew.  Even if this gem is not still around, the town is charming and not as touristy as some.  There were other restaurants and shops that looked worth exploring and might be a good base for touring next time.

Bar Harbor, ME We stayed in a classic motel, Highbrook Motel with morning breakfast ordered the night before and brought to our door.  We enjoyed being just outside of town as the city itself was really touristy.  

Acadia National Park AMAZING, the cinder trail system throughout the park was great for walking and if we had more time we would have rented bikes (or bring them next time).  The park is not huge but it’s got forest, coast, gardens, mountains, lakes… really all you could ever need.  We really enjoyed the walk around The Wild Gardens of Acadia to learn about native plant species maintained by a strong volunteer force and well marked with species names.  There’s a little structure that sheltered the natural springs which was intriguing as well. I would take time to hike the trails near here next time.  Little Hunter’s Beach is worth a visit to sit a listen to the music made by the waves coming and going over the round rocks. Cadillac Mountain was worth a drive to the top even though we couldn’t see anything due to fog.  The flat rocks at the top are cool to walk around and I am sure the view is amazing on a clear day.  Jordan Pond Trail is a nice flat trail and you can grab refreshments at the lodge there.  The stone bridges throughout the park are spectacular.  We really loved the one over Duck Brook creek.

Camden, ME Beautiful coastal town, we stopped for lunch at Peter Ott’s on the Water.  It was a great spot to watch the boats maneuver in and out of the harbor and get a peek at sea life.  Really enjoyable to stroll around the shops here as well.

Owl’s Head, ME There’s a great lighthouse you can climb up the hill to get a great view and it’s also the headquarters of the American Lighthouse Foundation.  It’s not a huge lighthouse but it’s perched high on a hill affording a great look out.  A local woodworker we met told us about it and it was worth the drive off the beaten path to see as it was secluded and not touristy.

Newcastle, ME We stopped at the Newcastle Publick House for an afternoon snack.  Brian said they were the best oysters he has had.  

Boothbay Harbor, ME This was where we had a cabin in the woods for a couple of nights.  We enjoyed walking around the area but we were right at the end of the season, even eating dinner at a restaurant that would close after that service until the following March.  There was a nice arts culture there but it wasn’t as picturesque as some other towns we visited.  

Bailey Island, ME On our drive to Portland we decided to take one of the little roads out to a finger of land that juts into the sea and we ended up at what felt like the end of the earth.  We enjoyed a little hike on Giant’s Stairs Trail around the tip of the rocks and pondered the house we saw on an island just off the coast–it had to be a feat just to get supplies over there!

Portland, ME We just had one night here and stayed in an AirBnB in the West End. We enjoyed dinner downtown and spent some time in the morning going to The Holy Donut for potato based donuts and then enjoying them as we strolled past the old mansions of the West End.  I think we would have enjoyed more time in Portland but the real reason for the trip was to be out in nature and enjoy the rugged beauty of the Maine Coast.